Nearly 4 years ago, I created a very special aquarium. It was designed within the nano, low-technology framework for Gold Ring Danios, a personal favorite of mine.
As one of the last projects I completed before dedicating myself to YouTube full-time, it also holds sentimental value. Since then, a lot has changed in my life and within the aquarium.
It has remained pristine, housing the danios alongside Green Kubotai Rasbora, Amano Shrimp, Cherry Shrimp, snails, and a few other transient inhabitants.
The vast majority of the original creatures are still thriving, especially the shrimp.
The Amano Shrimp are now over 2 inches long, and an initial population of 6 Cherry Shrimp has multiplied into the hundreds.
Although I still enjoy the aquarium, it is simply not what it used to be.
The glass is covered in scratches, Süßwassertang has taken over, staghorn algae has appeared, and the substrate is breaking down. It was ready for a reset.
My intention is to keep the essence of the original aquascape but with improvements that should serve the animals better and last far beyond 4 years.
What Are the Foundational Improvements for the New Aquarium?
The first improvement involved moving to a larger setup.
A new project was an excellent opportunity to finish what I started last year with my IKEA aquariums.
How I Built a Larger, Custom Aquarium on a Budget
Using Utrusta glass shelves, I devised a system to create reasonably priced, rimless glass aquariums. The aquarium I am making is equivalent to 30 gallons or 113 liters.
Including silicone, it cost approximately 100 United States dollars to build. For reference, the new aquarium is nearly double the size of the previous one, which also retailed for 100 dollars.
Being a rimless design, I also had to install a self-leveling mat on the bottom to protect the glass from surface inconsistencies. I even performed a water test, which I rarely do on custom builds.
I used a different brand of silicone this time around and wanted to take the extra precaution.
A Better Alternative to a Painted Aquarium Background
Another area for improvement was the back covering. I painted the previous aquarium, which is a process I do not enjoy.
It is annoying to apply, and years later, I noticed it was chipping off.
Instead, I decided to install a window frost film. With just water and a squeegee, the task was a breeze.
Improving Aquarium Lighting for Easier Maintenance
I wanted to change the lighting as well. The previous light-emitting diode strip light served the aquarium well, but it was annoying to work around during maintenance.
Switching to lights with mounting brackets makes maintenance much easier, and they also have a great appearance.
What Hardscape Materials I Chose for Longevity and Aesthetics
When considering the hardscape, I did not want to change much. I previously used Pagoda Stone and Mopani Wood, which are two of my favorite materials.
I wanted to use Mopani Wood again but decided to use different stones.
I had previously used sandstone in a recent aquascape ecosystem pond build, and I had smaller pieces left over that I had been saving for an indoor aquascape.
The pieces have great texture and coloring reminiscent of Pagoda Stone, so the choice was easy. I just had to spray them with a pressure washer to remove dirt and debris.
Why Mopani Wood is a Superior Choice for Long-Term Aquascapes
Pagoda Stone looks fantastic, and Mopani Wood lasts for an incredibly long time with no noticeable degradation, even after being in an aquarium for years.
For comparison, Manzanita wood looks similar, but it does not hold up as well. Even within a year, it starts to become soft and brittle.
The Benefits of Using Porous Sandstone
The sandstone pieces look incredible and are likely a preferable material. Despite being somewhat brittle, the stone is inert and porous.
Its porosity provides moisture-wicking properties, and I would imagine it offers more surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonize.
How I Prevent Substrate from Mixing Over Time
Another significant area of improvement was the substrate. Previously, I mixed a blend of aquasoil with a clay gravel substrate for the plants, which I then topped with sand for aesthetic reasons.
The aesthetic never lasts, however. The aquasoil always breaks down, migrates to the surface, or both.
Now, virtually none of the sand is visible, and a fine layer of dust is easily disturbed. A solution that has been working well for me involves using substrate bags.
I used that method in my low-technology guppy tank with great success.
The Best Way to Create Contained Substrate Bags
A polyester mesh fabric makes the bags possible. The fabric will retain a vast majority of small particles while still allowing plant roots to access the substrate.
I decided to use aquasoil again, which begins as small pellets.
I also put sand in the mix to add spaces and aerate the blend as the pellets break down. I have also enjoyed using topsoil in my aquariums a lot lately.
I just screen it well to remove larger particles before use. Combined in a uniform blend, these ingredients should work harmoniously within the substrate bags.
I poured a generous amount onto the fabric and bunched it up, leaving extra space at the top.
I sealed the bag with a zip-tie and removed the excess material. Having extra space at the top is essential for the bags to sit as flat as possible.
How I Safely Built the Hardscape Foundation
I was just about to get started in the aquarium when one of my inhabitants wanted my attention.
The Dwarf Frogs are highly perceptive and beg for food any time they know I am near.
The substrate bags would go on top of an egg crate layer. I laid them out as evenly and flat as possible with the zip-ties facing downward.
The foundation will provide nutrients for the plants while being contained, making it easier to maintain the desired aesthetic of natural sand.
I concealed the bags with a generous layer of sand that will be easy to plant in later.
How to Protect the Bottom Glass from Heavy Rocks
The stones I planned to use are heavy and could crack the bottom if placed directly on the glass.
Spreading their weight over a larger surface area drastically reduces this risk. An egg crate light diffuser is probably one of the best materials for the task.
How to Create a Stable and Lasting Hardscape
With the groundwork established, I could finally have fun with the aquascape. I particularly like one of the large, flat pieces of stone because it creates a background aesthetic without taking up much room.
It will also serve a dual function that I will explain later.
I worked a few other stones along its outskirts to create a simple yet effective scape.
The trick is to bring the look together with plants and driftwood.
I enjoyed the root look from the previous setup and intended to replicate that aesthetic, but I wanted most of the stonework to remain visible.
With that in mind, I did my best to maintain a dynamic and consistent flow.
My plan is to enjoy the aquarium for years to come, so I took the extra time to create a layout that I genuinely enjoyed.
Another inclusion I think makes a huge difference is epoxy.
When mixed, this aquarium-safe epoxy ensures the wood will not float when initially submerged and holds the aquascape together for the long term.
An epoxied setup is easier to maintain because you are not working around a precarious arrangement.
Plus, it is one of the easiest adhesives to remove when reusing the materials for a different setup.
It does not look great and is best placed in unseen locations.
Because it cures quickly, working in steps and securing portions of the hardscape at a time is easy without disturbing anything.
In addition, I placed smaller stones throughout for more interest.
The Best Filtration System for This Type of Setup
A further area of improvement that made sense was filtration.
Previously, I used a hang-on-back filter, which has been reliable and effective. However, a canister filter is more appropriate for an aquarium of this nature.
Additionally, I outfitted it with stainless steel lily pipes that mount directly onto the glass.
The pipes have a premium feel, match the light fixtures, and are more durable than their fragile glass equivalents.
A sponge pre-filter was also mandatory since the aquarium will become a shrimp tank.
I was far more conscious about the space around the hardscape this time around.
Everything was too close to the glass before, making it tedious to maintain, especially when scraping the glass.
That should never be an issue with the new design because I can comfortably work around the entire hardscape.
How Plant Selection Completes the Aquascape Vision
That leads to the final area of improvement: the plants. I will use most of the same plants I did previously, excluding Süßwassertang.
I love it and think it looks great, but it tends to dominate everything else once established.
I also have more plants to work with this time around to better achieve the look I wanted years ago, beginning with the epiphytes.
After adding the epiphytes and throughout the planting process, I sprayed everything down to ensure nothing dried up.
The Role of Epiphytes in a Hardscape
They look good, and they will also serve a few functions.
First, they simply break up the appearance of the hardscape.
Second, they hide any areas of epoxy that are still visible.
Finally, they fill in space and create visual barriers for the inhabitants.
The epiphytes will not utilize the substrate bags, but the other plants will.
How to Establish a Lush Cryptocoryne Carpet
I added a few stem plants, but the main feature I wanted and had not achieved previously was a forest of Cryptocoryne.
It is one of my favorite aquatic plants that I feel often gets overlooked. When grown in large numbers, it is breathtaking.
I mainly used green varieties for a base, with bronze-colored ones in key locations for interest.
I had to include another water lily as well.
With the base planting addressed, I could fill the aquarium with water and better understand how to proceed.
The Best Way to Add Riparian Plants
I intentionally left space behind a large rock to accommodate riparian plant growth, using a technique from one of my revised aquariums.
Riparian plants are an improvement due to how efficient they are at absorbing nutrients, thus minimizing algae growth.
I simply chopped a filter sponge to nestle the plants in.
The plants were initially cuttings that I had propagated from my frog tank, where they were growing in the same way.
I cleaned the roots, sandwiched them between pieces of the sponge, and then placed them behind the rock.
I added others in the same way, along with a smaller variety of Syngonium from another one of my aquariums.
In areas where the sponge is still visible, it is easily hidden with Java Moss.
I would have added even more terrestrial plants, but my supply was limited.
The Vision for the Mature Aquascape
I netted out debris, allowed it to settle overnight, and returned to find the aquarium riddled with tannins.
I expected the tannins, and it will take upwards of 6 months for the process to be complete.
It is probably the only downside to using Mopani Wood unless you are going for a blackwater aesthetic.
I pulled trimmings of Rotala from the old aquarium and planted them on the left side. The two largest lily pads were damaged during the build as well.
I trimmed them off so the plant can focus its energy on new growth.
I think the new layout has excellent movement and composition.
It also maintains the essence of the previous aquascape while being distinctly different and building upon its foundation.
There is no getting around the fact that it still looks new.
I want to see lily pads throughout the water, Bolbitus engulfing the left side, moss along the branches, plants bursting from the surface, and the Cryptocoryne carpet.
The crypt carpet is the part I am most excited about because Cryptocoryne never looks right at first.
Neither does Hemigraphis. It is fickle and always withers when transplanted into an aquarium of this type.
As long as the roots are fully submerged, which they are in my setup, I guarantee it will perk up in a day or two.
Why the Animals Are Not Being Added to the New Tank Immediately
I did my best to set a specific vision in motion, and I am confident it will look as I imagined, but I am dealing with nature.
The aquascape will take on a life of its own if left unattended.
I would say the original aquarium looked its best between years 1 and 3, but I have not maintained the aesthetic in over a year.
I knew it was on its way out and that I would be redoing it eventually, so I just let it evolve.
While not aesthetically what it once was, it is still a viable home.
Considering all of this, I am not adding the animals to the new aquarium just yet.
I would prefer to let the new setup establish longer since the fish are coming from a highly seasoned environment.
Plus, rounding up the Cherry Shrimp will be an ongoing process.
The Ultimate Goal for a Naturalistic Aquarium
The project felt like a full-circle moment for me.
It had me asking myself, what do I even want from an aquarium?
The answer is simple.
I want naturalistic setups that look as good as possible while also being low maintenance and providing the best environment for the animals.
That often involves redoing things because I keep learning, but I expect the redos to happen less frequently as I continue to build larger, more thoughtful setups like the one I have just completed.
Conclusion
I completely overhauled my 4-year-old nano aquascape by moving to a custom, budget-conscious 30-gallon rimless aquarium.
Instead of painting the background again, I used frost film, which is far easier to apply and more durable over time.
I also upgraded the lighting by switching to bracket-mounted light-emitting diode fixtures, which make maintenance much easier.
I rebuilt the hardscape using pressure-washed sandstone and Mopani wood, secured with aquarium-safe epoxy on an egg-crate base to evenly distribute weight and protect the glass.
To prevent the substrate from mixing and to support healthy root growth, I used polyester mesh bags filled with a blend of aquasoil, sand, and screened topsoil.
I upgraded the filtration system to a canister filter equipped with stainless-steel lily pipes and a sponge pre-filter to protect the shrimp.
For planting, I chose a diverse mix that includes epiphytes, a dense Cryptocoryne carpet, and riparian plants anchored in sponge sections.
Each plant was selected to support both the aquascape’s structure and the well-being of its inhabitants.
I am letting the tannins settle naturally and am holding off on introducing the animals to give the setup time to stabilize.
My goal is to create a low-maintenance, naturalistic aquarium that improves the animals’ environment and builds on the essence of my original design.
My name is Chibuzor Abraham Mba, and I’m the aquarist behind this website. I’ve spent years exploring the fascinating world of aquariums—especially small-scale tanks like nano and pico setups. Over time, I’ve made my fair share of mistakes, and through each one, I’ve learned valuable lessons.